Pattern Making Sewing

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pattern making sewing
how to make a sewing pattern larger?

I bought a size 12 by mistake I should of bought a size large. The whole pattern is a size to small need to make it bigger.

Ok, 12 to 14 is not such a big jump. The method I’m going to suggest is usually used for alterations rather than grading, but it’s pretty straightforward and I think it’ll work fine for you. It’s called the seamline method of pattern alteration. If you’d like to read more about it:

http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00018.asp

Draw in the actual seam lines (not cutting lines) if they’re not already there. Check the neckline (if it’s high and tight) and the armscye (if it’s a set in sleeve) against a size 14 pattern you already have or a garment that fits you similarly. I’m going to assume these are ok — if not, let me know and I’ll go through those fixes, too. I’m also going to assume the pattern is a front-and-back pattern (not princess seamed) for a top, dress or jacket. If it’s pants or skirt, or a princess seamed outfit, let me know.

A size 14 is 2″ bigger in the bust, waist and hip than a size 12, and 1/4″ longer in the back waist measurement.

Split the pattern horizontally on the “shorten or lengthen here” line
and lengthen it 1/4″. Tape that all in nicely.

Cut on the seamline from hem all the way up to the shoulder seam — yes, going around the armscye. Stop at the actual shoulder seam. Using the shoulder seam/armscye intersection as a pivot point, pivot the whole side seam area out 1/2″ — this will swing the armscye out a bit and raise it just a smidge. This armscye position change is minor, and won’t matter with most patterns. Tape in extra tissue to fill in that 1/2″ space you’ve just created, smooth out the hemline, and you’re done.

It’s pretty easy and straightforward, and has the beauty that it doesn’t disturb grainlines or change the fit of the sleeve or neck area, which are the hardest to get right. Give me a holler if this isn’t enough, and I’ll see what I can help you figure out.

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