Pattern Making In Garment

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pattern making in garment
Where do I add ease to my sewing pattern?

I finally finished my ideal sloper patterns, and now I’m trying to figure out the best way to add ease for different fits. I have a very large bust, so even in loose fitting clothes, I’m going to need some kind of bust dart. What I’m trying to figure out is how to add ease to it. So, let’s say I’m making a really loose fitting top. Do I add the ease just to the side seams, thus sewing the normal bust darts throughout, or do I divide the ease allowance throughout the whole garment to all the darts too, thus eliminating the need for back darts and making smaller bust darts. And then, if I do add it to the bust dart, do I shorten the bust dart, or is it the same length with a smaller width? And then, also, how do I add ease to account for stretch knits? Like if the fabric has a 2 inch stretch, do I account for that in my ease allowance too, and if so, exactly how? Thanks!

This book should help answer your questions and more that may come up – http://www.amazon.com/Make-Sewing-Patterns-Donald-McCunn/dp/0932538002

You will have to make a muslin to see what you need for your particular measurements.

Basic ease for tops and bottoms:

Tops:
Close fitting = 0 to 2 7/8″
Fitted = 3 to 4″
Semi-fitted = 5 1/8 to 8″
Loose fitting = 5 1/8 to 8″
Very loose fitting – over 8″

Hips:
Close fitting = 0 to 1 7/8″
Fitted = 2 to 3″
Semi-fitted = 3 1/8 to 4″
Loose fitting = 4 1/8 to 6″
Very loose fitting = over 6″

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